Locked Keys in Car? 5 Ways to Get Back In (Without Damaging Your Door)

It happens to everyone at some point: you shut the door, hear the click, and realize your keys are sitting on the driver's seat. Before you panic — or call a locksmith who charges $50 to $150 for a five-minute job — here are five proven ways to get back into your car.

1. Check Every Door and the Trunk First

It sounds obvious, but in the stress of the moment most people only try the driver's door. Walk around the car and pull every handle. Many vehicles only lock the driver's door on the first press, and on plenty of SUVs and wagons the trunk or tailgate is on a separate lock circuit. If you can get into the trunk, folding down the rear seats often gets you into the cabin.

Cost: free · Time: 1 minute

2. Call Roadside Assistance (If You Already Have It)

If your insurance policy, credit card, or vehicle warranty includes roadside assistance, a lockout call is usually covered. AAA members get lockout service as part of their plan. The downside is wait time — anywhere from 30 minutes to a few hours depending on where you are.

Cost: often $0 if already covered · Time: 30 min – 2 hours

3. Use a Car Unlock Kit (The DIY Method Pros Use)

This is what tow truck operators and roadside techs actually use: an inflatable air wedge plus a long reach tool. The method is simple and, done correctly, safe for your door and weather stripping:

Insert the deflated air wedge between the top corner of the door frame and the car body.
Pump it a few times to create a gap — just enough to slide a tool through. Don't over-inflate; you're making a finger-width gap, not bending the frame.
Slide the long reach tool in and either press the unlock button, pull the interior door handle, or hook the manual lock post.
Deflate the wedge, remove it, and open the door.

The whole job takes about two minutes once you've done it once. A good kit like the Sturvo 27 PCS car unlock kit bundles the air wedge, several long reach tools, pry tools and gloves in a zippered bag that lives in your trunk — it pays for itself the first time you use it instead of calling a locksmith.

Cost: ~$33 one time · Time: 2–5 minutes · Works on: cars, trucks and SUVs with power locks or accessible lock posts

4. The Shoelace Trick (Older Cars With Post Locks)

If your car has vertical "post" locks that stick up on the door sill (common on vehicles from the 90s and early 2000s), you can tie a slipknot in a shoelace, work it into the door corner, loop it over the post, and pull up. It's genuinely effective — but only on that specific lock style, which most modern cars no longer have.

Cost: free · Time: 5–15 minutes · Works on: older vehicles with post locks only

5. Call a Locksmith (The Expensive Fallback)

If none of the above works — for example, a dead battery means power locks won't respond, or the keys are locked in the trunk of a sedan with sealed seats — a mobile locksmith is the reliable option. Expect to pay $50–$150 depending on time of day and location, and ask for the price upfront before they start.

Cost: $50–$150 · Time: 20 min – 1 hour

What NOT to Do

Don't pry the door with a screwdriver or metal wedge. You'll crease the door frame and tear the weather stripping, turning a $33 problem into a $500 body shop visit. Use a proper inflatable wedge instead.
Don't smash a window unless a child or pet is inside in dangerous heat — a side window replacement costs $200–$400, far more than any other option on this list.
Don't rely on a coat hanger on modern cars. It rarely reaches the right mechanism anymore and can scratch paint and damage wiring inside the door.

The Takeaway

The cheapest lockout is the one you're prepared for. A $33 car unlock kit in the trunk turns a stressful, expensive afternoon into a two-minute fix — and unlike a locksmith, it's there every single time you need it.